Find the Best Rock Climbing Routes in El Chorro, Spain

Update: January 2018

How do you find the best rock climbing routes in El Chorro, Spain? For the most part - From your smartphone!

Best Rock Climbing Routes - Checking Phone at the Crag

The sports climbing mecca of El Chorro has seen a lot of development over the past few years, with lots of new routes being put up, older routes have been extended and some old bolts and hangers have been upgraded hence the major printed guidebooks to the area are currently out of date.

There are many websites which have an extensive collection of topos, photos and route guides, however, none of them appears to be definitive therefore StRuth Adventures have collated all the information together for you in one easy page so you can quickly and easily find information on the best rock climbing routes!

Best Rock Climbing Routes - Checking Phone at the Crag

Find the Best Rock Climbing Routes in El Chorro, Spain

#1 Bernabe Fernandez

This is the best place to find information on many of the multi-pitch climbs, including topos and descriptions (In Spanish)

Routes:
Ebola (155m,6b+)
Apocalipsis (210m,6c)
Corazon Que No Siente (220m,6c+)
Mar De Fuego (210m,7a)
Espolon Oderse (120m,V+)
Zeppelin (300m,6c+)
Proyecto Amptrax (165m,6a/+)
Mal De Ojo (310m,7a)
Semilla De Oro (220m,6c+)
Lluvia De Asteroides (250m,V+)
Estrella Polar (280m,6b)

#2 The Climbing Lodge

The climbing lodge is a German-run climbing guest house based between El Chorro and Valle de Abdalajis. On their website, they have up to date, downloadable topos for some of the crags.

Topos for download:
The Multi Pitches on Escalera Suiza
Escalera Arabe Downstairs
Escalera Arabe Upstairs
El Corral east side
Mc. Claud
Tango
Valle de Abdalajis - Fisuras
Olivitos & Cocina Caliente
La Momia
Encantadas

Decent route guide for hiking up Mont Huma

Good topo including multi-pitch Rogelio

#3 27 Crags

Includes topos, photos, weather information and access information.

Also available as an App on both the App Store and Google Play. Features include off-line mode, GPS mapping to find your way to the best rock climbing routes, tick and wish lists and photo sharing.

Crags: Valle de Abdalajis, Tinieblas, Rocabella, Pancake Valle, El Corral, Serena, Escalera Árabe, Cocina Caliente, Tango & Sin Futuro, Olivitos, Las Encantadas, Solarium, Frontales, Castrojo, Los Bichos, Traverse, El Techo, La Larga y Sombria Hora del Te, Caliza, Las Nubes, The Gorge, Cerro Cristo, Restaurante al borde del universo, Los Cotos, Makinódromo, El Polvorín, Los Tigres, Los Bloques, El Invento, Sector Incognito, Desplomilandia, Las Gradas, DWS Lake Guadalhorce and El Torcal

#4 Cartowall

Includes an overview of the area and excellent interactive topos.

Good topos of multi-pitch routes -
Zeppelin
Amptrax

 

 

#5 UK Climbing

List of crags and routes. Not all routes have descriptions, and/ or photos. You can create a personal logbook of your climbs and the style of their ascent, with a wish list for future attempts/ projects.

Via Ferrata

StRuth Adventures video of a beautiful day on the route can be found here

Via Ferrata El Chorro - StRuth Adventures
Via Ferrata El Chorro

A map and route description are available from Wikiloc

Update on the printed books

Buy your copy of the RockFax here. It's still the best printed version of the best rock climbing in El Chorro, and can be easily edited by you with the latest routes from the information given through this page.

El Chorro Climbing Books - best rock climbing routes

The development of the cliffs in and around El Chorro village has continued at an impressive rate since the publication of the last Rockfax guide ... This coupled with the expansion of the outlying areas, and the development of new cliffs has kept the area well furnished with new routes throughout the grade range and offers both the first-timer and the seasoned El Chorro visitor something new to go at.

The famous RockFax guide, by Mark Glaister, was last published in late 2008 and still has some of the best route and access descriptions. Although this book is missing the most recent climbs, a large part of the content is still accurate and shows some of the best rock climbing routes in the area. Mark will be spending a lot of time in El Chorro over the coming months and an updated book is in the making, with the potential to be twice as thick as the last one.

The latest access information from RockFax can be found here

RockFax have issued updates via a downloadable PDF.

They have also created online links to the crags within their books and a downloadable map of the area.
Crags Included:
Las Frontales
Arabe Escalera
Las Encantadas
Makinodromo
Túron
Desplomilandia
Valle de Abdalajis
El Torcal

The spiral-bound local guidebook, by Javier Romero Rubiols, now on the 16th edition and last published in 2013, is also in the process of being updated. Likewise to the RockFax, this will be at least a year away.

*We are based at The Olive Branch Guest House. Check out their website for accommodation options.

Happy climbing!

If you think we have missed anything out, please get in touch and we will be happy to add links here for.

struthadventures

We are an adventurous couple from the UK who have been travelling together as often as possible since 2002 and permanently since 2012. We love to scuba dive, rock climb, hike, run, and explore new places.

5 thoughts on “Find the Best Rock Climbing Routes in El Chorro, Spain

  • Pingback:Your definitive guide to finding the best rock climbing routes in El Chorro | El Caminito del Rey – The Kings Path – El Chorro- The Guadalhorce Reservoirs

    • December 7, 2017 at 10:07 am
      Permalink

      Hi Mark,
      Thanks for the update. I’ll add the link to my site. I’d love to see and comment on the new material.
      There are a lot of new routes in the area, most notably some of the new multi-pitches which are well worth a mention.
      In your post, you mention El Corral East. From what I understand, access to El Corral East is limited to access that doesn’t go through the farmers’ (Lorenzo) land and it may be worth noting that not all the routes are completed and some are missing bolts. I feel that there are better crags than this one to highlight to people coming to the area, such as the fully accessible and recently bolted Los Olivitos and Cocina Caliente, and the un-named crag just behind those two.

      I look forward to seeing your recent work. Your books are definitely the best ones, with excellent access notes and route descriptions.
      All the best
      Ruth

      Reply
      • December 8, 2017 at 3:12 pm
        Permalink

        Hi Ruth – Thanks for getting back to me. I will send you some PDFs (can you send me your email please – to mark@rockfax.com). I will be putting in the multi-pitch sport routes and feedback on these would be much appreciated. Coral East has a better approach that does not go near any property including Lorenzo’s). I have completed the Olivitos and Cocina topos and just need some info to finish of the upper crag that is in fact an old crag called Bedees the has been rebolted and more routes added. I will be out again after Xmas so perhaps we could meet for chat and climb?

        Reply
        • December 23, 2017 at 5:29 pm
          Permalink

          Hi Mark,
          Apologies for the delayed reply – just seen this message. I will send you an email. The new info and PDFs sound great.
          Thanks
          Ruth

          Reply

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